Grass Fed (or, the Fundamental Bass)

Dear Colleague,

I recently had an exceptionally fine day with my wife at the State Fair. The usual things that come to mind were there: amusement park rides, textile and food exhibits, an extensive lumberjack competition, an exceptional plant exhibit (perennials and annuals), a formidable food gauntlet with everything from very good (crepes, Carolina bbq), to horrifying (corn dogs, and a place offering "mile-high fries"), livestock shows, a couple of horse competitions, and exhibits by the 4H and FFA.

Observing the young people involved in the FFA livestock exhibit brought home for me again the similarities between food and music.  Surely you are thinking "of course the FFA and the Brandenburg concertos have many things in common." Or not. But, from my way of thinking, with which you are familiar, the fundamental elements involved here will not come as a surprise. It was a heart warming experience to see a group of young people so dedicated to something, with a sense of purpose, The discipline involved in caring for the animals from birth to whatever their final destination may be. A daily practice is involved, to be sure, in caring for the animals.

You ask, "I see how this dedication, routine, and respect for something is similar to music, but how does this relate to food?"

It is not the dedicated young people by themselves that provide the parallel. It is the interaction with the animals, some of which become food. Being part of this process gives one the opportunity to watch something grow, mature, and finally be part of something else. The animals that mutate into the food state go through another process and become part of something else, and at this point the young people are no longer involved. But they provided a unity in the food chain, similar to what Jean Philippe Rameau called in  his Treatise on Harmony, the fundamental bass in music. Or as demonstrated in Francesco Gasparini's L'Armonico Pratico al Cimbalo, the building of harmony from the ground up.

An awareness of the source of our food, be it plant or animal, should be more a part of our daily eating. Ann Vileisis discusses this in captivating detail in her book Kitchen Literacy. And our daily practice of music should include an awareness of the composition process. Very few of us these days are performer-composers such as J. S. Bach, Giuseppe Tartini, or François Couperin, and fewer still of us have made the effort to study rhetoric and oration and their relevance in composition and performance. An awareness of the sources and processes is our foundation for food and music and are essential to a good understanding of them, and should be considered in our preparation of both.

When people speak of grassroots movements, they perhaps should think of Rameau or Gasparini, and build their structure from the bottom up, grass fed.

I remain,

y.m.h.&o.s.,

Quantzalcoatl

Tacos de Pescado con Agréments (or, ¿Did Couperin Visit the New World?)

Dear Colleague,

Tonight we had the simple fish taco. The finished product reminds me a of an air de cour, ornamented following Mersenne's guidelines in Harmonie universelle (Paris, 1636-7). On the surface a taco is just a taco, and an air is just an air. Neither appears exceptionally complex but that is why both "compositions" provide such a satisfying result (when prepared properly).

The air de cour poetry will never be confused with Petrarch, Guarini, or Machaut. And shredded cabbage will never be anything but peasant food. But when you combine the air de cour poetry with the melodic line and seventeenth-century French harmonic vocabulary, the elements of performance practice, and my favorite performance element, rhetoric, each air can then touch your soul. The touch can resemble anything from a delicate caress of your cheek, to the searing pain of a boning knife jabbed right between your ribs en route to your heart.

The taco? The required elements:

• A homemade corn tortilla (I use a tortilla press, but, of course, a good quality, locally made tortilla purchased at a grocery store that sells primarily organic food will work just as well), 
• pan-roasted wild-caught true cod, 
• organic, refried black beans, 
• green, Napa, or Savoy cabbage (or, if you want some good color contrast, add some purple cabbage as well), 
• diced tomatoes, 
• scallions, 
• chopped cilantro, 
• lime wedges 

 And the essential elements, the rhetoric of the taco, so to say. My choices here reflect my personal taste and the philosophy of "think globally, buy locally."

• Lime-and-Chimayo-chile infused fat-free sour cream (one could use any chile powder from ancho, guajillo, to cayenne),
• either Rogue Creamery's Raw Milk Cheddar (Central Point, OR), or my favorite, Beecher's Flagship cheddar (Seattle, WA)
• queso cotija.

One could use just plain sour cream, or none at all, or any cheese, and have an ordinary eating experience. One could also just sing the words of the air just as they are, with no rhetorical inflections, no flexibility in the rhythms, and with nothing but the plain notes. In each case, what will you have? A list of ingredients that may or may not satisfy you.

As with most of the music we refer to as Baroque, the notes on the page are merely mnemonic devices; 50% of the music is the responsibility of the performer, who has to function in the manner of a composer-performer from the 17th and 18th centuries.

And as with any food we prepare for ourselves or others, the raw ingredients are just a point of departure. The beauty of the finished product comes from the way the ingredients are combined, supervised by the personal touch of the composer-performer. A chef is a chef; chef de cuisine or chef d'orchestre.

I remain,

ymh&os,

Quantzalcoatl

Iberia and the New World (¿Por aquí o para llevar?)

Dear Colleague,

To help prepare emotionally, as well as intellectually and musically, for the concert of Baroque, Renaissance, and Traditional music from Spain and Latin America (and one piece of Yaqui Indian origins), a sampling of cuisine from Spain, Mexico, and Argentina was needed.

The menu:

Paella (from Steve Raichlen's Healthy Latin Cuisine), substituting squid rings and bay scallops for the shrimp.

Posole (with blue corn hominy) (After I browned the pork loin chunks I just tossed everything into the slow cooker; may have overdone the Chimayo chile pepper for the taste of some . . . )

Tacos de carne asada (After rolling out a few tortillas by hand, I lost patience and just grabbed a package of the local corn tortillas I always have around, for just such an emergency) A good marinade of lime juice, salt, and olive oil worked well on the meat.

Matambre. This recipe comes from an older Time-Life book we bought at a used book store. The most difficult part is the flaying of the skirt steak. Next time I'm having the butcher do it, or at least make sure my knives are properly sharpened. That is another story for another time . . .

And the blending of cuisines: risotto with Chimayo chile, shiitake mushrooms, and sweet potatoes.
This seems almost redundant given that the paella is the Spanish version of risotto, but this had no seafood in it. The chicken Andouille was the perfect protein for this (and I took it easy on the Chimayo this time).

Yes, this was a ton of food to prepare over a couple of days but the gang pitched in to defer the costs and took care of the clean up.

The program, as usual with these cross-genre events, required me to do all sorts of things that, in theory, I've trained for, but the reality is that I don't get to practice these skills enough. Thanks be to Providence, the music writing software program does some of it for me. With the trad player on the program we went to a=440 Hz, which, as you know, is less-than-ideal for Baroque flutes, so I opted for whole tone transposition for the pieces which used the flute. I switched to recorder for a couple of pieces, and even played the quena on one piece.Add to that the occasional need to improvise an accompaniment in styles of music that are far removed from either Tartini or Quantz in their styles, techniques, and harmonic vocabularies, and you have a flute player on the edge. The edge of what, we cannot say . . .

The concert went well and was not without some shameless grandstanding. For the last piece on the program, an arrangement of Santiago de Murcia's "Folias gallegas," I played an African drum as well as flute, even doing both at the same time on a few occasions when the extemporized aspect of the piece allowed for a drone on the tonic note while I beat a rhythm on the drum.

Next time this program happens, I'll make sure you are on the gig. We had too many leftovers and not enough flute players.

y.m.h.&o.s.,

quantzalcoatl